At least three distinctly different board-gaming revolutions have occurred during my lifetime, namely role-playing games (starting in 1974), collectible card games in 1993 and then the rise of Ameritrash / Eurogames in the late 90's / early 2000's.
But one notable trend proceeded my existence, kicking off around 1954 with embryonic Avalon Hill's first offering: Tactics. This seminal release ushered in the fad of modern hobby wargaming.
Pre-internet attention spans ensured that wargaming was still very much alive by the time I became aware of the hobby around 1980. One of my fondest childhood memories was my Dad pulling me out of school on a Friday afternoon to go to Corner Brook on "business." I detailed a typical excursion right here.
And here's the part of that actually relates to today's topic:
"The highlight (of going to Corner Brook was) a trip to the Valley Mall. (The hobby shop chain) Leisure World had a back shelf well-stocked with Avalon Hill wargames like Squad Leader and Panzerblitz..."
As a burgeoning World War II buff, these titles really piqued my interest, but I also had the wherewithal to realize that those Avalon Hill boxed sets were waaaay too advanced for my pre-pubescent brain. Fortunately, encountering The Complete Book of Wargames at my local library helped me navigate through this daunting minefield; a fun experience which I recount right here and here.
Fast forward to around the mid-to-late 2000's. With thirty years worth of board game evolution bleeding into the venerable war-gaming hobby, we got slick, card-driven fare like Combat Commander: Europe, which - to this day - is still one of the most memorable gaming experiences I've had in my entire life.
Another next generation / "this ain't yer (grand)Daddy's ASL" is Conflict of Heroes: Awakening the Bear! – Russia 1941-42, first released in 2008. Still obsessed with those Avalon Hill games of yore, I bought it right out of the gate 'cuz I was still hunting for a squad-level WWII combat experience that took me beyond Memoir '44.
After futzing around with the game solitaire style, I could definitely tell that it was something very special. Unfortunately, because we usually have 3-6 attendees for every game night, the opportunities to table two-player games are few and far between.
(* pssssttt * I'll let you in on a little secret: my recent blog entry meta goal of late is to "tame" some of the more complicated games in my library, mainly by recording an extended example of play as well as a summary of "easy to forget" rules. That way, I can prep them a lot quicker and - in turn - have some juicy options in the hopper if game night collapses down to just me and one other opponent.)
So impressed was I by the core mechanics of COH, I immediately sold off my first edition and leapt on the second, which followed four years later. Apparently a third edition came down the pike in 2019, but - based on my research - the differences are nominal, so I think I'll stick with what I've got.
And what exactly makes this game different from the why-does-this-rule-book-read-like-a-legal-document fare that proceeded it? Well, here's the game's description on Board Game Geek:
"Awakening the Bear is the first game in the multi-award winning Conflict of Heroes series. In it, players control individual squads and tanks to resolve the same tactical dilemmas and decisions that commanders faced during some of the most ferocious engagements of WWII.
"CoH features a fast and fluid system that is easy to learn but realistic to all of the unique theaters of battle portrayed.
"Fun: Quick simultaneous play allows players to interact without waiting.
"Easy: Teach a new player how to play in under 5 minutes. No charts!
"Historically Accurate: Portrays realistic forces and tactics.
"Counters: Depict individual vehicles, airplanes, guns, squads and more."
If any of you armchair generals out there still need the order of battle, just click on the following link to see the full rules dossier!
***
EXTENDED EXAMPLE OF PLAY
Firefight 1 - Partisans (Including the use of Action Cards)
ROUND ONE
As per the scenario details, Germans have the Initiative.
LMG 34 # 10 Activates and moves into I3. Russian Rifle '41 # 3 Activates and moves to K13.
LMG 34 # 10 moves into I4. Russian Rifle '41 # 3 moves to K12.
LMG 34 # 10 moves into I5. Russian Rifle '41 # 3 moves to K11.
LMG 34 # 10 moves into I6. Russian Rifle '41 # 3 ducks into K10, behind the light woods.
LMG 34 # 10 spends two AP's to fire at Russian Rifle #1 at F13, Range of 7. AR 4 + roll of 6 = 10 versus DR of 12...a miss! Russian Rifle '41 # 3 enters the K9 light woods.
LMG 34 # 10 spends one AP's (and one CAP...down to 5) to fire at Russian Rifle #1 at F13 again. Range of 7. AR 4 + roll of 5 = 9 versus DR of 12...another miss! Unit is now spent and gets flipped. Russian Rifle '41 # 3 sneaks through light woods to reach K9.
LMG 34 # 9 Activates and moves into F3. Russians spend their "Rapid Deployment" card to move their #1 Rifle Unit two hexes into the cover of Light Woods at F11.
LMG 34 # 9 moves into F4. Russian Rifle '41 # 3 fires at LMG 34 # 10, has to spend 3 CAP's (down to 4) to supplement its remaining AP to do so, now Spent. Range is 3. AR 3 + roll of 10 = 13 versus DR of 12 +1 for Light woods = 13. Ties hit! Defender is "Panicked!"
Germans play "Rally Up!" on the Panicked LMG 34 # 10...but the roll of "6" fails. Russian Rifle squad #2 Activates and moves into the Light Woods at H11.
LMG 34 # 9 moves into F5. Russian Rifle squad #2 fires at Panicked LMG 34 # 10 (-4 AP's), AR 3 + roll of 6 = 9 versus DR of 12 +1 for Light woods -2 for Panic = 11...miss!
LMG 34 # 9 moves into F6. MMG Maxim # 17 is Spent to take an Opportunity Action and fire at LMG 34 # 9. Range of 6 is fine. AR 3 + roll of 6 = 9 versus DR of 12...miss!
LMG 34 # 9 spends 2 AP to move into G7's Heavy Woods then Pivots to face F8. Russian Rifle squad #2 fires at Panicked LMG 34 # 10 (spending remaining 2 AP's and 2 CAP's, down to 2). Now Spent. AR 3 + roll of 7 = 10 versus DR of 12 +1 for Light woods -2 for Panic = 11...miss!
Germans spend their "Command Action" card to try and Rally the Panicked LMG 34 # 10...but a "4" is a failed die roll. Russians Activate Rifle Unit # 1 and move them into F10.
The Germans spend 5 CAP's (now at 0) to try and Rally their still-Panicked LMG 34 # 10...roll is "9"...success and the token goes back into the draw pool! (NOTE: remember that units get positive Rally mods for terrain and allies in the same hex!) Russian Rifle Unit # 1 spends four AP's to fire at LMG 34 # 9, Range is 3. AR 3 + roll of 9 = 12 versus DR of 12 +1 for Light woods = 13...miss!
LMG 34 # 9 fires at Russian Rifle Unit # 1. Range of 3. AR 4 + roll of 8 = 12 versus DR of 12 but +1 due to Light Woods...another miss! Russian Rifle Unit # 1 spends two AP's (and their last two CAP's) to fire at LMG 34 # 9, Range is 3. AR 3 + roll of 3 = 6 versus DR of 12 +1 for Light woods = 13...miss! This unit is now Spent.
It's just German units left now! After LMG 34 # 9 is Spent, Rifle Unit # 2 uses all 7 AP's to reposition from E2 to H7, which required moving through two Heavy Woods hexes. They end their movement facing towards G8.
German Rifle Unit # 2 runs from H2 to G7 9 (via G5) for seven AP's to join up with LMG 34 #9.
Both factions pass so the the round ends. The Russians score a Victory Point for retaining the Objective and the Round Marker advances.
ROUND TWO
All Spent Units flipped to Fresh. Germans back to 6 CAP's. Russians to 7. Both factions get one new Action Card. The Russians get two new Rifle Units (#5 and #6), which enter the map at F18 and G18 respectively.
Initiative: the Germans spend a CP (down to 5) to add +1 to their Initiative Roll and the Russians add +2! German ro;; 10 + 1 = 11. Russians 8 + 2 = 10. The Germans go first!
The Germans play "Swift Action" for one CAP (down to 4). Their # 2 Rifle Unit surges up two hexes (using 2 AP's), capturing the Objective Hex! Russian Rifle Unit # 1 responds with a pot shot at them! Russian Rifle Unit # 1 spends four AP's, Range is 1. AR 3 + roll of 9 + 3 Short Range! = 15 versus 12. That's a hit! They get "Pinned"!
-5 AP's for a Rally Attempt. This needs to happen so they Germans spend a CAP to add +1 to the attempt (down to 3). the roll is 7 +1...success! The Russian Rifle Unit # 1 firsts again, spending 3 AP's and a CAP to do so. Range is 1. AR 3 + roll of 9 + 3 Short Range! = 15 versus 12. Another hit! They are "Cowering"!
This doesn't prevent them from moving, so they spend two CAP's (down to 1) to storm into the Russian's hex at H10. The Russian defenders spend all four of their remaining CAP's to engage the Germans in Close Combat. AR 3 + roll of 7 + 4 Close Combat! = 14 versus 12 (+1 Cowering and +1 Light Woods, but using Flank DR). Second hit...Unit Destroyed and the casualty placed on 6 space of the German's CAP track! Unit is Spent.
LMG34 # 9 fires at Russian Rifle # 1. Range of 3. AR 4 + roll of 10 = 14 versus DR of 12 but +1 due to Light Woods...it's a Hit! They are "Pinned"! MMG Maxim #17 lays down some suppressing fire against the German machine gunners and the German Rifle Unit # 1 in the same hex! Range is good at 6. AR 3 + roll of 7 = 10 versus DR of 12 +2 (Heavy Woods) = 14...miss! Versus the Rifle Unit: AR 3 + roll of 2 = 5 versus DR of 14...miss!
LMG34 # 9 fires at Russian Rifle # 1, -2 AP's. Range of 3. AR 4 + roll of 10 = 14 versus DR of 12 but +1 due to Light Woods...it's a second Hit! It's eliminated and the Russian unit is placed on the "7" space of the CAP track. MMG Maxim #17 spends 2 AP's to move through Heavy Woods to reach D11.
LMG34 # 9 fires at Russian Rifle # 2, -2 AP's. Range of 4. AR 4 + roll of 7 = 11 versus DR of 12 but +1 due to Light Woods. Miss! Russians activate Rifle Unit # 2 (MMG Maxim #17 now Spent) and they return fire at both German units in that hex, Range of 4. First attack against the LMG: AR 3 + roll of 10 = 13 versus DR of 12 but +2 due to Light Woods. Against the Rifle Unit: AR 3 + roll of 8 = 11 versus total DR of 14. Two misses!
LMG34 # 9 fires at Russian Rifle # 2, -1 AP's and also spends last remaining CAP. Unit is Spent. Range of 4. AR 4 + roll of 9 = 13 versus DR of 12 +1 (Light Woods) equals a tie. Ties hit! Russian unit goes Berserk! They fire back..costing only 3 AP's (and are now Spent). First attack against the LMG: AR 4 (+1 boost due to Berserk) + roll of 8 = 12 versus DR of 14 (+2 due to Heavy Woods). Against the Rifle Unit: AR 4 + roll of 9 = 13 versus total DR of 14. Two misses!
LMG34 # 10 fires at Russian Rifle # 3, -2 AP's. Range of 3. AR 4 + roll of 5 = 9 versus DR of 12 +1 (Light Woods). Miss! Counter-attack: Rifle Unit # 3 against the LMG 34 #10: AR 3 + roll of 6 = 9 versus DR of 12 but +1 due to Light Woods. Miss!
Once again, LMG34 # 10 fires at Russian Rifle # 3, -2 AP's. Range of 3. AR 4 + roll of 5 = 9 versus DR of 12 +1 (Light Woods). Miss! Rifle Unit # 3 runs out of cover to hex K8!
LMG34 # 10 is forced to Pivot for 1 AP! Rifle Unit # 3 continues to run towards K5, moving into L7.
LMG34 # 10 fires at Russian Rifle # 3, now exposed! Range of 3. AR 4 + roll of 5 = 9 versus DR of 12. Miss! Now Spent. Rifle Unit # 3 continues to run towards K5, moving into K6. Now Spent!
German Rifle # 1 Activates, moves into G8. Russian Rifle # 4 moves into G17.
German Rifle # 1 moves onto the Objective Hex. Russian Rifle # 4 moves into G16.
German Rifle # 1 charges onto Berserk Russian Rifle Unit # 2's hex at H11. Russian Rifle # 4 moves into G15.
Close Combat! German Rifle # 1 charges at Berserk Russian Rifle Unit # 2! AR 3 + roll of 10 + 4 Close Combat! = 17 versus 14 (11 Flank Facing +2 Berserk +1 Light Woods). That's a hit...and since it's the second, the Unit is Destroyed and the casualty placed on space "6" of the Russian's CAP track! Unit is Spent. Russian Rifle # 4 moves into Heavy Woods at G14.
No German units left! Russian Rifle # 4 moves into H13 for another -2 AP's, now spent. The final Russian unit, Rifle # 5
REVIEW
THE GOOD
- After you've played the introductory firefight a couple of times, you can review the rules for Card use, Shared Actions and Hidden Units and then hit up scenario two to lock everything in. This programmed method of learning is a great system which ensures that you don't have to digest the two-column, 23 page rulebook all in one sitting to get started.
- The rules are very clearly presented with tons of example to illustrate how they work. And - I can't stress this enough - I really wish more game manuals included Designer's Notes 'cuz sometimes knowing the reason why a rule exists helps you remember it!
- A lot of the mechanics at work here are clearly the product of thirty years worth of board game evolution. The use of AP's and supplementary CAP's, a single table to summarize all of the terrain effects, drawing chits to determine random hit effects and playing cards to simulate general battlefield chaos all elegantly replicate the experience of being in a WWII-era firefight.
- Perhaps the most inspired design choice are the alternating Actions, which ensures that the game is a dynamic back-and-forth versus a painful slog where players attempt optimize every single unit's full turn, experiencing some pretty debilitating analysis paralysis in the process.
- Hex-and-chit wargames have never been known for their aesthetic value, but this game looks great. The info arrayed on the high-gauge chits is clear and complete and the illustrations really contribute to the immersion. The hex boards are also quite lovely.
- There's not a single anthropomorphic cat, rabbit, bird or raccoon to be seen anywhere. Yes, I know some people find real-world wargames to be distasteful, but personally I'm fascinated by this era of combat, the battlefield logistics involved and what The Greatest Generation had to endure in order to preserve our way of life.
THE M'EH
- Honestly not much. I suppose I could nit-pick that loose-to-the-point-of-abstract cover art and the aesthetically bankrupt design of the Action Cards, but these complaints are pretty superfluous.
- I can't think of anything particularly egregious. Now, keep in mind, I still haven't played through every single firefight, so watch this space for any future re-considerations.
BONUS: Important Rules to Remember
- Control of an Objective stays the same until an opposing ground unit enters and solely occupies the hex, even if it passes through it.
- CAP's can be used to supplement a unit's AP's. They can be used fresh, active or spent units.
- Fresh units are not marked as spent until they use all of their own AP's.
- Each player can only have one Activated unit at a time. A unit is marked as spent if a new unit is activated.
- An Activated Unit can intersperse its AP Actions with other units to take Opportunity, Command or Card Actions.
- Opportunity Actions can only be taken by a fresh, unactivated unit. This doesn't use either AP's or CAP's but the unit it marked as spent finishing the action.
- Two CAP's can be spent to either increase or decrease one of their own a die rolls by the same amount, prior to the roll.
- You can pay up to 2 CAP's to add an equal amount to your Initiative Roll, prior to the roll.
- All units must be facing towards a hex side. A unit can move backwards into one of its flank hexes for a -1 AP / CAP penalty, but then can pivot to any facing for free.
- A unit can change its facing without moving for 1 AP /CAP.
- Units can move into and through hexes with allied and enemy units. If there is an enemy unit in the same hex at the start of a turn, you an initiate a close combat.
- LOS is clear if you can trace an uninterrupted line between the center dot of the attacker and defender's hex. Buildings and both types of Woods block LOS.
- The arc a unit can fire from is the forward three hexes.
- Attack Value is the unit's AR + 2d6 + CAP mods. Defense Value is DR + Terrain. If the AV ties or exceeds the DR...that's one hit. If the attacks succeeds by 4 or more...that's two hits! The latter result = unit destruction.
- Destroyed units are placed on its owner's CAP's track, resulting in a -1 reduction per loss.
- There are no stacking limits. When attacking into a hex with more than one unit, resolve the attack against all units with separate die rolls. NOTE: CAP's that modify die rolls affects only one target.
- You can try and get rid of a Hit token by spending 5 AP's and attempting to Rally. If you exceed or equal the number on the tile with a 2d6 roll, the marker is placed back in the draw pile. Add +1 if the unit is in Cover and +1 if its stacked with un-Hit allied units. Otherwise it stays. NOTE: you can't Rally in a hex with enemy units.
- You can attack units less than or equal to twice its Range, but at a -2 penalty.
- Units get a +3 Short Range bonus if attacking from an adjacent hex.
- When one of your units moves into a hex with enemy units you can attack one of them in Close Combat. If the defending unit survives, it can counter-attack. NOTE: there's a -2 penalty to the attacking unit's AR is in a white box...I.E. a machine gun crew! Otherwise, there's a +4 AR bonus. Close Combat is resolved against the defender's FLANK DR. Terrain DM's still apply and Forts benefit the occupying units. Units can't sight outside their hex when enemy units are in their hex.
- You can retreat from Close Combat on your next action, but can't move into the same hex or either of the two adjacent hexes the attacker came from...but may on later turns.
- If an outside unit fires into a Close Combat hex, allied units are also targeted!
No comments:
Post a Comment